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« A zeppelin flight over London! | Main | A cycling tour of London »

August 05, 2008

1066 Country

HastingsI was hugely impressed with the quality of accommodation I saw and would really recommend Hastings and Rye for a long weekend away.

urrounaddedWe started in Hastings Old Town and the shingle beach known as the Stade - home to the biggest beach-launched fishing fleet in the country.

I looked round a gorgeous B&B called Swan House - striking interiors designed by owner Lionel and allegedly fantastic breakfasts created by his partner Brendan. See website www.swanhousehastings.co.uk plus excellent review in the Guardian from last summer http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2007/jul/14/saturday.hotels1.

The Old Town itself is lovely with little antique shops, boutiques (e.g. Made in Hastings), prints, kitsch oven gloves and rag rugs, restaurants (eg Pomegranate/Soupcon), Judges organic bakery and deli (owned by Jo Fairley of Green and Blacks), tea room/cafe Land of Green Ginger. Old Town Week Carnival happens in August with processions and free music concert on the beach - http://www.1066.net/carnival/

Up on the hill overlooking Hastings itself is Black Rock House,  a new boutique guest house that was taken over by ex-Brighton couple Tracey-Anne and Lesley and re-opened in June 08. The interiors are very stylish - bold prints and cool greys  - and the house is a beautifully-restored Victoria villa with high ceilings and a calm seaside air. Only three rooms at the moment but they are finishing a suite in the back part of the house which has it's own wing - will be great for families/friends staying together. 

I stayed on the once-grand Warrior Square in St Leonard's - piece in The Times today celebrating its arty vibe: http://property.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/property/buying_and_selling/article4435257.ece

The trendy hub that is Norman Road has some cool shops: lots of antiques; French furniture at Jacobin; quirky gifts at McCarrons (run by actors);  Black Lark gallery - soon to exhibit Vic Reeves works; QOL Fine Foods - cafe and deli run by a nice lady called Spike www.qolfinefoods.com - more info on webiste http://thenormanroad.co.uk/

Continuing my tour, in nearby Winchelsea I visited another lovely B&B, Strand House, run by Mary Sullivan - fantastic old Tudor house (dating back to the 13th Century no less) with higgledy-piggledy staircases and luxurious rooms with low ceilings - a great find, particularly for Mary's gourmet suppers. Winchelsea was originally one of the Cinque Ports but is now a stranded port, sitting quietly on its hill.

Many of you will be familiar with the lovely town of Rye - beautifully preserved historic port with cobbled streets and strong literary links (former residents include EF Benson, Henry James, Spike Milligan and HG Wells). I had a quick look around the lovely Jeakes House on famous Mermaid Street - another great place to send press - traditionally elegant rooms.

We lunched at The George Inn with owner Alex Clarke who with his wife Katie has transformed this faded coaching inn into a gorgeous bolthole. Ex-prop buyer and set decorator Katie is responsible for the interiors which really work. They are big on food - head chef is ex-Moro (also Alex's sister is Sam Clark of Moro fame) and interestingly are linking up with new local bakery and cookery school Lighthouse Bakery to run bakery weekends - coming this Autumn.

Rye Bay Scallops are the local speciality and where better to try them than Webbe's at The Fish Cafe - a local favourite.

My boss is a frequent visitor to Camber Sands - a fantastic white sandy expanse of beach and impressive sand dunes - I walked down to the beach but sadly had no time to paddle. Well worth a visit as there are some quiet spots with barely a soul in sight.

I didn't get a chance to visit any of the local vineyards although I've heard they are good. Local wines are celebrated at the annual Hastings Seafood and Wine Festival on 20th/21st September http://www.visit1066country.com/hastings/events/seafoodfestival/default.aspx

Last stop was Great Dixter House and Gardens - I'm not particularly green-fingered but this place has a great history and the imaginative gardens are unlike any I've seen. 

I've just realised I've been talking about Hastings and haven't once mentioned SMUGGLING or the BATTLE - here's a link to the historical info... http://www.1066country.com/experiences/the_sea/opi.aspx

Have you been to Hastings? What did you think about it? Any other seaside resorts you'd recommend for historical interest? Let us know by commenting on this blog.

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